"$uper" frugal living. "$aving" money...one idea at a time.
Showing posts with label how to:. Show all posts
Showing posts with label how to:. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

How To: Clean and Deodorize Your Dishwasher

Does your dishwasher look like this?
(or some other nasty variation of it?)
Do you find little food particles stuck to your "clean" dishes?
Do your dishes smell "fishy", even after they have been washed?

Mine did.  And it was grossing me out.  Big time.   

So I did a little research (here and here) and set about fixing the problem. 

All it takes is a little vinegar.  Really!   

$uper easy....$uper cheap! (Commercial products can be expensive...and are not necessary.)

HOW TO:  CLEAN/DEODORIZE YOUR DISHWASHER
Step 1  Fill a cup or bowl with 1 cup vinegar (distilled white is best).  
Step 2  Place cup/bowl on top rack of EMPTY dishwasher.
Step 3  Run dishwasher through a REGULAR wash cycle, hot of water as possible (heat dry not necessary)

VIOLA!
Not brand new...but a VAST improvement.
I even stuck my head in there and "took a big whiff".
Ahhh....fresh.  No more "fishy" smell.

For more extensive cleaning/deodorizing try these tips:
1.  Remove utensil holder and lower rack
2.  Use an old toothbrush or dish scrubber to clean around inside of dishwasher door (paying close attention to crevices and rubber seal) with HOT soapy water.
3.  Use a sponge or clean cloth to wipe down the entire interior of the dishwasher, including the bottom (pay close attention to the drain where food particles collect).
4.  Replace utensil holder and lower rack. 
5.  Repeat steps 1,2 and 3 from above, only pour an additional cup of vinegar over the bottom of the dishwasher as well.

Thursday, January 26, 2012

"Angry Birds" Cake

 
Yeah...we're pretty big "Angry Birds" fans around here. The "fever" became even hotter when we got the kids Angry Birds: Knock On Wood Game and Angry Birds plushes for Christmas.  Now we can't seem to get enough of them.
(I've become quite the master builder and they the master "knock-er-down-ers)

So it didn't surprise me too much when Little Red picked an "Angry Birds" cake for his birthday a few days ago.  

We googled and pinterested (Yep.  I make up my own words) and didn't come up with anything this cake decorating rookie thought she could manage.  Everything was made with fondant (including the characters), which I DO NOT do (I can barely handle store bought tub frosting), so I had to come  up with something else.  I packed all 4 of my XY's into the car and headed to Winco with this particular card (which Little Red picked out from the game) as inspiration.
Shopping for ingredients becomes a difficult task when you have a child with nut allergies (birthday boy) so we had to get creative.  The original plan was to use Little Debbie Nutty Bars (which I would still recommend using if you can) but turns out they are manufactured in a plant with tree nuts (he's deathly allergic to cashews) so we had to strike that plan and find another solution. We settled for these instead:
Now...for the birds/pigs.....  
We scoured the bulk section and decided on these:
It took a bit of time, manipulation, and a tooth pick, but I was really satisfied with the results.
The pigs
black and red bird

yellow birds

pigs:  green Tootsie pop, Tootsie rolls
black/red birds:  Tootsie pops, Tootsie rolls, sprinkles (for eyes)
yellow birds: dots in center (to form Tootsie roll around), Tootsie rolls and sprinkles (for eyes)

Now for the cake:
I used a regular 9 x 13 sized cake (you could definitely go bigger) and frosted and textured it, with the back of a frosting knife.  You could also try coloring coconut and sprinkling it on top (I didn't because my kids don't like it). 

Add some regular ol' kabob skewers to stabilize the structure (if using Nutty Bars you may not need these...just a bit of frosting to hold it together)...
 even from the back
and WALLAH!

  ANGRY BIRD CAKE!

Now....I have to say that I would STILL recommend using the Nutty Bars if you can.
Cream filled cake pieces were just not as stable (even with the skewers) as I would have liked them to be.
After falling over three times, from the sheer weight of the structure, 
we decided to let it rest.
 The kids thought that was pretty cool too.
("Just like in the game")
Whew...thank goodness.

The best part about it...
the entire thing was edible (unlike nasty fondant).
The birds/pigs were the kids favorite part.

and when they're happy....I'm happy.

It was a really fun project/cake.  I wouldn't hesitate doing it again.

So what do you think?  Any ideas on what I could have done to make it more stable?  I'd love some feedback!

Monday, January 16, 2012

Laundry Updates PLUS How To: Deodorize your washing machine

It's been two months since I first started seeking out tips to $ave money in the laundry room.  I thought it time I report back.

First, the Homemade Laundry Soap is working out fabulously.  Now, although I have never been a Tide snob, I do have certain expectations for the cleanliness of my laundry and this soap passes the test.  Which is fantastic...because it's $uper cheap and easy to make.  In fact, I'm making my second batch today.

Then, I discovered a way to get rid of static in the dryer by using a tightly wadded ball of aluminum foil.  We tried it for a while (and it worked great at first) but have since abandoned this idea.  As winter set in, and there were no signs of precipitation, things got really dry around here...and our clothes got extremely static-y.  The aluminum balls just weren't cutting it.  Plus, we started noticing some black/grey streaking on the inside of the dryer.  I don't think they were denting in....just leaving marks...and so we said "bye, bye aluminum balls" for now.  Shucks....I hate it when frugal ideas don't pan out. (if you tried this out....leave a comment and tell me how it went for you.)

One last thing to update on.

We've been using vinegar as a natural deodorizer/fabric softener, as a supplement to the Homemade Laundry Soap , for "soiled" loads of laundry (thanks for the tip livingrichwithcoupons).  It totally works.  I highly recommend it.  (Fresh smelling underwears and sheets makes for one happy mama).

Speaking of vinegar and laundry (I swear, do I ever have a chance to think about anything else?), today I wanted to share something new with you.

How To:  Deodorize Your Washing Machine

Have you ever opened up the lid to your washer and almost passed out from the stench.  I used to...all of the time.  Then, one day, I couldn't take it anymore and went about looking for a way to remedy this problem, without spending a lot of $$ on those brand name (expensive) washing machine cleaners you can find at the store.

That's when I came upon some pretty interesting information (at ehow.com).
In 1999, Dr. Charles Gerba, a University of Arizona professor, conducted a study on the cleanliness of Americans' washing machines. After washing a sterile washcloth in 60 homes, he found evidence of fecal matter and E.coli in approximately 25 percent of the machines. Dr. Gerba theorizes that laundry has become less clean due to fewer Americans using bleach and hot water in addition to shorter washing and drying cycles. Deodorizing your washing machine should be a frequent task not only to eliminate odors, but to kill the bacteria and germs left behind when you finish a load of laundry.
Nasty, yes?  Luckily, following were some tips on how to clean out said odors/bacteria....which I got to, right away.

First step: Pick your cleaning agent.....distilled white vinegar or bleach.

To clean interior (rim, lid and dispensers) and exterior of your washing machine:  Soak a cloth in equal parts distilled white vinegar (or bleach) and hot water.  Wipe all surfaces thoroughly. **Don't forget the rubber seal (especially on a front loader)**.  Allow surfaces to dry and resume normal use.

To clean the tub:  Start a normal wash cycle and allow the tub to fill with HOT water.  Once full, add one GALLON of distilled white vinegar (or 2 CUPS bleach) and allow machine to completely run through the cycle (washing, spinning, rinsing, draining).

WALLAH!  Stench free and sparkling!  For under $2.

Other tips/ideas:
*Leave the lid of your washer open in between loads to allow for drying/airing out.
* If you frequently wash in cold or warm water, consider adding at least one HOT water load to your weekly routine to prevent mold and mildew from forming.
*According to ConsumerReports.org, four common culprits cause odors most frequently in washing machines: using too much detergent, using fabric softener, washing clothes in cold water, and infrequent use. Modifying these habits may decrease the need to deodorize your machine as often.


Have a happy, stink free day, y'all!  :)

Monday, November 21, 2011

How To: Get melted crayon out of clothes

First of all...let me say that if you are searching out this topic because you have a similar problem...I am sorry.  Very sorry.

Now...where to begin. 

Well...if you recall, last week I was having a peaceful, stress-less morning until I opened up the dryer and found black crayon melted all over an entire extra large load of laundry (see Help!  I need you....Crayon vs Dryer).  JUST GREAT!

A part of me...a very LARGE part of me...wanted to just condemn the clothing and chuck 'em.  But...unfortunately, the more logical and frugal side of me won out.  I decided to try and clean them.  (Boo!)

It's not like I have all the time and money in the world.  I needed something quick and cheap but also wanted to give you, my readers, a true test of options.  So with that in mind, I tried a few different methods (adapted from Crayola.com this blog, and my own intellect), modifying them as I saw fit, and am here to give you my recommendations/solutions.

 For cleaning the dryer drum-

I put a few rags in the dryer and turned it on for a few minutes to warm the wax back up.  I then sprayed it with Pro-Tek (a non-toxic all purpose cleaner--safe for fabric) and wiped every inch of the drum clean (Crayola.com recommends using WD-40...my opinion...see below).  I then placed a few clean white rags in the drum and ran it again for a few minutes to test for cleanliness.  It worked.  Everything came out clean.  Also recommended...drying a load of dark clothing (if your crayon was dark) before anything else...."just in case".  After the rags I dried a load of old sheets and towels.  Worked for me.  Whatever you do...just make sure the drum in clean.  You don't want MORE crayon in fabric on your hands.  I'm confident that almost any cleaner would work for this step.  At least any cleaner with any sort of degreasing abilities.

For the clothes-
I tried a lot of different cleaners and methods.  Here's what I recommend.

#1 Fill washer tub with HOT water.  Add 1 to 1-1/2 cup(s) "Homemade Laundry Soap" concentrate (or whatever detergent you have on hand) and a capful of Clorox 2.  Add clothes.  Wash on REGULAR (not casual or delicate) for 3-5 minutes to distribute the soap/color safe bleach throughout.  Then stop the washer and let the clothes sit for 20-60 minutes before continuing the wash cycle.  Be sure to use the longest wash cycle your machine has (mine is called Super Plus and runs about 12 minutes long).  Rinse on WARM.

I found that by doing this I was able to eliminate at least 60 % of the stains right away.  Sweet!....the less scrubbing the better, right?

NOTE:  DO NOT PLACE CLOTHING THAT IS STILL STAINED IN THE DRYER TO DRY!!!!!!  Hang them to dry if you are not going to work on them right away.

#2 Let the scrubbing begin.
Honestly...like I said,  I tried a LOT of products. 

First, I tried this... 
Pro-Tek (a non-toxic all purpose cleaner--safe for laundry) and Clorox 2

This...
Stain Devils-for pen and crayon and Clorox 2

This...
My "homemade laundry soap" concentrate and Clorox 2
and...eventually....I did try this...for the sake of research
Crayola.com's suggested  concoction
Wanna know what worked best and was the cheapest?  The "Homemade Laundry Soap" coupled with the Clorox 2.  TRUE STORY!

The Pro-Tek and the Stain Devils (specifically made for pen and crayon) worked okay.  I had to spend just as much time scrubbing the clothing as with the laundry soap (maybe even a tad bit longer).  The WD-40....ugh!...did not work any better than anything else I tried.  I was very hesitant to use it (even though it came recommended by several different sources) but did so anyway...for the sake of research.  It added another step to the whole spray and scrub process because after using it you then have to scrub the WD-40 OUT of the fabric with dish soap.  And what did I end up with?  More stains...from the oily lubricant.  So...I can easily say that I personally would not recommend using WD-40.  It was, by far, the most expensive, as well as the most labor intensive process I tried.  That's my take.  Do with it what you will.

So here's what I suggest for remaining stains (after laundering as instructed above):

Take a small amount of  "Homemade Laundry Soap" concentrate and work it into the fabric using your knuckles, fingernails, a soft scrub brush (not a stiff one...I tried it...not so good on the fabric), or by rubbing the fabric together.  Continue scrubbing until stain is completely gone or significantly lighter.

Re-launder according to directions above. 

If stains remain (I only had two shirts that didn't come completely clean and the stains were very very light)....REMEMBER NOT TO DRY CLOTHES IN THE DRYER...and repeat scrubbing and laundering instructions above until clean.

Remember this light blue shirt that was BY FAR the worst of the bunch and I was ready to just throw away?


PRE-WASH

POST LAUNDERING--PRE-SCRUBBING

WELL...look at it now.

POST LAUNDERING-POST SCRUBBING-POST SECOND LAUNDERING
TA-DA!

There are still a few very faint stains.  I will probably have to put it through the scrub/laundering process one more time before it is fit to wear but a VAST improvement I must say.  

It was Roberto's favorite work shirt.  He almost cried when he first saw it (he he he) but now he is just as hopeful as I am that he will be able to wear it again very soon.  

I hope this helps...and please take the advise given me by my mother.  Work on it slowly...one thing at a time...maybe only one article a day.  Don't let it overwhelm you.  All is not lost.

Happy Laundering y'all!

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

How to: Soak, Cook, Measure and Store Dry Beans

Beans, beans, the magical fruit......  Ha...just kidding.


We've all heard of the "rice and beans" diet.  You know...what you eat when money is "tight".  Why?  Because it's cheap  frugal.  And...when combined, rice and beans make a complete protein...which is very important, nutritionally, if you are cutting back and/or out on animal proteins.  Plus...beans have lots of fiber.  Good for the body too.


Up 'til now I have been buying canned beans (which you can get for pretty cheap if you watch for good sales)...but, have discovered that cooking them myself is a whole lot cheaper (something about labor costs...he he).


It's really not as hard or time consuming as I imagined it to be...in fact, it's SUPER easy and not an inconvenience on my time at all.


So, I thought I would share what knowledge I have on the subject.  All in the name of $$ SAVING.


ALL ABOUT BEANS
Quick tips:

-Most beans will rehydrate to triple their dry size so be sure to start with a pot large enough to accommodate.

-Rinse and sort, removing any rocks, dirt, or discolored beans.

-Before cooking, soak dry-packaged beans to help soften and return moisture to the beans and reduce cooking time.


SOAKING METHODS:

Preferred HOT SOAK and QUICK SOAK methods - For each pound dry beans (2 cups), add 10 cups hot water; heat to boiling and let boil for 2-3 minutes.  Remove from heat, cover and set aside for at least one hour (quick soak) or up to 4 hours (hot soak).  One useful hint about hot soaking, is that it helps dissolve some of the gas-causing substances, making the beans easier to digest.


CROCKPOT METHOD-   Soaking not necessary; see instruction on how to cook below.


TRADITIONAL OVERNIGHT SOAK- For each pound dry beans (2 cups), add 10 cups cold water and let soak overnight, or at least 8 hours.


COOKING DRY BEANS

STOVE TOP- Drain soaking water and rinse beans; cook in fresh water (8-10 cups).  In general, beans take 30 minutes to 2 hours to cook depending on the variety.  Check bean packaging for specific cooking times and instructions.  To test if beans are done, bite-taste a few.  They should be tender, but not overcooked.

CROCK POT - Place rinsed (soaking not necessary) beans in the crock pot.  For every cup of dry beans place 4 cups water in the crock pot (1 lb, or two cups, will require 8-10 cups water), making sure the beans are completely covered.  Cook on high until tender (3-4 hours), or cook on HIGH for one hour, then turn to LOW and continue cooking overnight (6-8 hours).  To test if beans are done, bite-taste a few.  They should be tender, but not overcooked.


ADDING FLAVOR while cooking-  Spice up beans while they cook.  Seasonings such as garlic, onion, oregano, parsley or thyme can be added to the pot while beans are cooking.  Add acidic  ingredients, such as tomatoes, vinegar, citrus juices, only at the end of cooking, when the beans are already tender.

Add salt only after beans are cooked to tender.  If added before, salt may cause bean skins to  become impermeable, halting the tenderizing process.

COOLING - While cooling, keep beans in cooking liquid to prevent them from drying out.


CANNED BEANS

Canned beans are a great convenience since they are already presoaked and precooked.  Always drain and thoroughly rinse canned beans before adding them to a recipe (a MUST in our house...does wonders for cutting down on flatulence).


STORING BEANS:

Uncooked beans can be stored in a tightly sealed container in a cool, dry area.  If kept for more than 12 months, beans will lose moisture and may require longer cooking times.  However, their nutrient value is NOT lost with age.


Canned beans may be stored up to 12 months in their original sealed cans.

Cooked bean may be refrigerated in a covered container for up to five days and may be frozen for up to six months.


MEASURING BEANS

One 15 oz can of beans = one and one-half cups cooked beans, drained

One pound dry beans = two cups dry beans

One pound dry beans = six cups cooked beans, drained

One cup dry beans = three cups cooked beans, drained


Most of this information was provided to me by my mother...who got it from the American Dry Bean Board (www.americanbean.org).  I got help with the crockpot instructions from ehow.com.


Coming soon...recipe for Super Tasty (homemade and low-fat) Refried Beans

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